Sunday & Monday in Lyon
6:00 am
Well, it’s early morning and I’ve had a few hours sleep to catch up on the last whirlwind 40 hours or so. On a plane by 8:00 pm on Saturday, then nine hours to Heathrow. A brief layover, then on the plane to Lyon at 3:00 pm the next day. Into Lyon by about 5:00, quickly followed by a 70 euro cab ride (a little over a hundred dollars) to the hotel. The Bocuse group was in the lobby by then, so a rushed check-in to a surprisingly large, ornate room, a Clark Kent change of clothes and a swift shave was the extent of settling into the hotel.
We took a 20 minute walk through a curious juxtaposition of classic architecture with imposing stone-works and modern French businesses of convenience. How a vacuum cleaner store could afford the rent here I don’t know. Our walk ended at Brasserie Georges, www.brasseriegeorges.com ,a 500-seat brasserie restaurant in business since the early 1800’s. It was packed when we got there, and after holding a lineup until well past 10:00 pm, it was packed when we left around 11:00.
What a place! An iconic building that no one would construct today, the 500 seats are all under a 30 foot ceiling in one massive room, and not a support pillar in sight. A live jazz ensemble entertains throughout the evening, smoothly segueing into “Happy Birthday” with every well rehearsed dimming of the lights. The lights dim on and off all evening, each time accompanied by applause and a parade of sparkling desserts.
Platters of foie gras, oysters and snails passed along the table with simple vinaigrettes and wonderfully chewy breads started things off. Dinner ranged from delicate plates of scallops and seafood cannelloni to monstrous trays dedicated to sauerkraut and pork and potatoes. Whole ham hocks, pork belly, cured shoulder, frankfurters, all served with beers brewed on site – all in all a very suitable first meal in France.
So now I’ve had a few hours sleep, and the support team is off with David and Grace for more kitchen work at a local culinary school.
1:00 pm
The team has been busy at work in the kitchen, and we’ve just finished a team lunch, prepared from the trimmings of the kitchen session. Countless boxes of equipment are checked and rechecked. Cook times and temperatures are confirmed over and over.
The big event of the day has definitely been the arrival of the silver platters. Custom designed specifically for David’s Bocuse d’Or menu and crafted in France, they arrived today safely packed in huge wooden crates. Until now, David has been practicing on steel mock-ups of the platters, so it was like Christmas morning opening up the real article. Polished to a mirror finish, they are exquisite works of art, and completely unique.
